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Writer's pictureEmilie Scott

Using algae to make fast fashion less wasteful

The majority of clothing fabrics used today are wasteful

Since the rise of social media dawned in the late 2000's, fashion production has accelerated to result in tons of accumulated waste, coining the term fast fashion. The reason for the waste directly ties back to the materials used to create the product. CNN reports that fashion waste accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions and just 15% of textiles in the US are recycled. It's also estimated that 2,700 liters of freshwater is required to produce the cotton for a regular t-shirt (WWF)- equivalent to one person’s drinking water for two years. Companies like Temu, Shein, and Fashion Nova are outpacing mega manufacturers that are capable of producing more than 450 million clothing items in a single day. Facing consumer pressure, brands like Zara and H&M are forecasting timelines aiming to become net zero and even using 100% more sustainable linens. Sustainable linens are currently viable for at-scale production vary from hemp to bamboo to reliable cotton, but there is a currently untapped type of linen that could pose significant advancements in waste reduction and emissions.

clothing pollution in Chile
Clothing pollution in Chile | Source: Getty Images
Algae is capable of becoming the most sustainable fabric

Algal biomass has the potential to produce useful polymers due to its macromolecules consisting of the building blocks needed to form chains of molecules that form a plastic-like product. Petroleum also includes similar molecular chains that form synthetic polymers, but algae's composition (cellulose, glucan and galactan) is more naturally derived and as such easier to biodegrade. Existing polyester material can be the most similar existing form, but the petroleum composition has a much harsher biodegradation timeline.

Algae accounts for more than half of Earth's oxygen

Algae is captures carbon dioxide from the atmosphere via photosynthesis, posing a significant opportunity in lowering emissions. The aquatic photosynthetic organism also doesn't require fertilizer, which fabrics (predominantly cotton) are known to require heavy fertilization, contributing to chemical runoff. Dyes are lesser acknowledged as a major component in the production process, though it far exceeds its perception in outweighing all other supply chain factors for toxic byproduct. While the development is still nascent, alloy mixtures of algae and more common fibers, such as cotton, wood pulp, or lyocell, to provide incremental improvements in existing production sustainability. Both dyes and fiber can be created with the aquatic plant, making it a viable option for both reducing waste and meeting existing consumer expectations.

Algae fabric
Algae fabric | Source: Tammy Bar Shay/Algaeing

Why algae fabrics currently aren't available at scale

The existing infrastructure and supply chains for petroleum-based or cotton-based production are well-established and optimized. Shifting to algae plastic would require significant changes and investments in infrastructure, including cultivation systems, extraction facilities, and processing plants. Algae plastic production requires large-scale cultivation of algae, optimal growing conditions (light, nutrients, and water), specialized infrastructure, and relatively longer time to extract the oil and convert it into plastic- thus making algae plastic less economically competitive.

Clothing factory in China | Source: MMS Clothing

Extracting and processing the oil from algae and converting it into plastic involves additional steps and costs compared to petroleum-based plastic production. Efficient extraction methods are needed to obtain a high yield of oil from the algae biomass. Identifying and optimizing algae strains for high lipid (oil) content, which is crucial for plastic production, can be a time-consuming process. Researchers need to identify strains that grow quickly, produce sufficient oil, and are suitable for large-scale cultivation.


What the next steps would look like

Various advancements would need to occur before algae can be a viable alternative to existing fabrics- Despite these challenges, research and development efforts are underway to overcome these hurdles. Scientists and companies are exploring innovative technologies to improve algae cultivation, oil extraction, and plastic processing methods. With further advancements and economies of scale, algae plastic production could become more accessible and economically viable in the future.

  • Standardized processes: Given the current lack of standardized practices and variations in production methods, it is challenging to provide an exact quantity or ratio of algae to fabric. The amount of algae required to make a yard of fabric can vary depending on several factors, including the specific type of algae, the manufacturing process, and the desired properties of the fabric. Since algae fabric is a relatively new and evolving field, there isn't a standard or fixed ratio of algae to fabric yield.

  • Softness & breathability: Algae fabric is known for its smooth and silky texture, which can feel similar to certain types of cotton fabrics. However, it's important to note that the softness of cotton is highly valued and sought after in the textile industry, and it has been perfected over centuries of cultivation and processing. Algae fabric, being a newer and less widely used material, may not have reached the same level of softness as cotton.

  • New solves for production timing:

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